When do you plan to start pruning?

[Eric Jones]

Just wondering when everybody plans to start pruning this year. All the leaves are off my vines, and I’m thinking about getting it done before the rains start. Appreciate any insights.

Eric Jones

[David Hicks]

Hi Eric, Board member David Hicks here. I would suggest that you wait until till at least end of January. We had a warm fall and very few freezes to shut the vines down. My vineyard is in Lake County at 1400 ft elevation and all the local pro vineyards start pruning in early Feb. You don’t want any capillary action going on in the vines. With capillary action stopped the cuts can scab over and the the new buds zones can be protected much more effectively. But suggest you do it by mid February because the weather this year seems like a dry warm winter. Regards, DH

[Kay Schmaier]

Hi Eric,

We pruned a couple of weeks ago before the rains.  It was a good window.  We paint the wounds to avoid trunk disease so perhaps the timing is less sensitive with that precaution.

Kay Schmaier

[Eric Jones]

Super helpful advice. Thanks!

David – how do you know when capillary action has stopped? Do we need a stretch of days cold enough for frost?

[David Hicks]

Hi Eric,  sorry for the slow reply.  Thought this system had recents on the top not the bottom of the scroll so I missed your question.   Assume you finished pruning?  Two things to consider in pruning timing.  Also best to knock it off all a once, i.e. don’t do it over 2 weekends.  Wait till at least mid Feb and/or wait till there has been at least a couple nights of sub 32* temp.  With global warming,  waiting till end of Feb seems the best bet, but be sure to get on it at that time, like today?   DH

[Karen Maggio]

As a rule of thumb, after the leaves have fallen, the plant is dormant and you can make a clean cut without sap coming from that cut.  For more information this is the UC Agriculture link:  https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Growing_Grapes_in_the_California_Garden/?uid=29&ds=436

[Daniel Howsepian]

Hi Eric:

When to prune is a good question.  You should never prune if there is Rain in the forecast within 4-5 days. Trunk rot and other diseases is a real concern with cuttings.  One should always seal your cuttings!  

The earlier you prune, the more likely of diseases.  I usually prune late February early March, depending on the weather.

Also, later pruning will delay bud break, so if you think you might have some freezing events ahead, I would hold off.

Hope this helps.

Daniel

[David Hicks]

In response to Ms. Schmaiers reply regarding painting the cut wounds.  This cut wound painting issue came up when I took my courses at Davis during a 6 hours stint pruning in a growers vineyard in the foothills. The Davis instructors said to never do it.  It was something I saw done in Oak trees 60 years ago around my area in Lake County.  No professional grape growers I know ever paint over a properly prune wound cut.  Cut wounds need to be at least 1/2 inch above the cordon or a bud on the cane and should be cut at about an average of 20* so that if the cut does bleed that the sap will run off and a thin coating will seal the wound.   Best way to prevent bleed is to prune as late   as possible but before push.    DH

BTW the comments regarding rain and timing are right on.

[Kay Schmaier]

Great info everyone has contributed here! I’m glad I’ve joined this knowledgeable group:)

My comment about painting the cuts was specific to using an organic fungicide.  This is the process used and taught in the student vineyard of Napa Valley College’s viticulture program.

Thanks,

Kay

[Bill Pence]

Kay:

I prune late February, early March and use VitiSeal as an excellent, safe, approved product for protecting the wound and adding organic chemicals to help the plant naturally seal the wound.

 

Bill Pence

Tarabrook Vineyard

[Bill Pence]

Kay…

 

BTW…VitiSeal is approved by UC Davis!!!

Bill Pence

Tarabrook Vineyard, Orinda….

[Kay Schmaier]

Yes, VitiSeal is what we use too!

[Eric Jones]

Hi David,

Finished pruning. Got it done four days before the last rains, as recommended by everyone here.

Next step is to try to root some cuttings to replace the vines that have died.

Any suggestions for that?

Or would I be better off purchasing some already-rooted stock?

I have 90 vines of Barbera, and about 6 that need to be replaced.

Thanks!

[Bill Pence]

Hi Eric:  The nursery in Santa Rosa I believe David Hicks is referring to is novavine.com.  They supply all the commercial vineyards. However, they also have a backyard program for smaller vineyards. They have a massive selection of dormant vines. After reaching their website go to their menu and click on “grapevines”….From their scroll down and click on NOVA BACKYARD. Good luck!  BTW, they will ship the dormant vines directly to your doorstep!

…..bill pence

Tarabrook Winery & Vineyard, Orinda, CA

[David Hicks]

Hi Eric,  I’m of the opinion that starting new plantings with dormant bench grafts with your cultivar of choice grafted to the rootstock of choice is best.  The nursery will advise on rootstock when you tell them where you are and your soil condition.  Additionally it cuts at least a year off your growth and fruiting cycle.   A challenge could be to find a rootstock nursery that will sell you a handful of product, suspect most will.  You can look up nurseries, there is one between Petaluma and Santa Rosa, another is on Highway 12 going out of Santa Rosa toward Sonoma.   There also might be one in the Livermore Valley.  Best to get on is as April is the best month for planting dormant bench grafts.   DH

[David Hicks]

Hi Eric,  I’m of the opinion that starting new plantings with dormant bench grafts with your cultivar of choice grafted to the rootstock of choice is best.  The nursery will advise on rootstock when you tell them where you are and your soil condition.  Additionally it cuts at least a year off your growth and fruiting cycle.   A challenge could be to find a rootstock nursery that will sell you a handful of product, suspect most will.  You can look up nurseries, there is one between Petaluma and Santa Rosa, another is on Highway 12 going out of Santa Rosa toward Sonoma.   There also might be one in the Livermore Valley.  Best to get on is as April is the best month for planting dormant bench grafts.   DH

[David Hicks]

Hi Eric,  I’m of the opinion that starting new plantings with dormant bench grafts with your cultivar of choice grafted to the rootstock of choice is best.  The nursery will advise on rootstock when you tell them where you are and your soil condition.  Additionally it cuts at least a year off your growth and fruiting cycle.   A challenge could be to find a rootstock nursery that will sell you a handful of product, suspect most will.  You can look up nurseries, there is one between Petaluma and Santa Rosa, another is on Highway 12 going out of Santa Rosa toward Sonoma.   There also might be one in the Livermore Valley.  Best to get on is as April is the best month for planting dormant bench grafts.   DH